Visitors to Italy prior to the 1880s would have a difficult time relating to what passed for pizza at the time. Although the pies had been made in the area for centuries, many ingredients considered essential by modern Americans were absent. First of all, tomatoes were not native to Europe. It was not until the discovery of the Americas and the discovery of tomatoes that it was even possible to add tomato sauce. Even then, it took many years to convince the people that tomatoes were not poisonous. A white sauce was used as a topping until the 17th century. Cheese was not used at all until around 1889.
Originally, pizzas were a by-product rather than a food. Bakers used the flatbreads to check the temperature of their ovens. Instead of throwing them away, these test pies were sold to those too poor to afford better food, who soon started adding seasonings and sauces. Before long, bakers realized they had a viable product that could be sold from street-side stalls and bakery windows. Still, the pies were shunned by more affluent clients until 1889. According to lore, that is the year that Raffaele Esposito prepared a special pie for Queen Margherita. He used basil, mozzarella, and tomatoes to represent the fields on the Italian flag and is believed to be the first to use cheese. He named his creation the pizza Margherita, and the queen apparently enjoyed the pie a great deal.
Even after the pies became popular in Italy, American pizzerias were largely limited to Italian neighborhoods. That began to change after World War II. American soldiers who had been stationed in Italy developed a fondness for the pies. Less than a decade after the war ended, pizzerias were appearing in affluent, non-Italian neighborhoods.
A New York City grocer named Gennaro Lombardi is normally given credit for opening the first real pizzeria in America. Around 1897, he began selling the pies from his grocery store. At five cents a pie, some people could not afford to purchase a full pie. He discovered that he could sell the pies by the slice, match the size of the slice to what the customer could pay, and increase his profits at the same time.
Most pizzerias were local and owned by a family until chains realized how popular the Italian pies had become. Shakey’s was among the pioneers, opening in 1954 on the west coast. Pizza Hut opened its first store in 1958 in Wichita, Kansas. Others soon followed, such as Pizza Inn. However, the pies were largely eaten on-site or the customers would pick them up. At the time, this meant a wait of as much as thirty minutes. In 1960, Domino’s opened its first store and choose to stake their future on delivery. Located near a college, the delivery service allowed students and homeowners the convenience of phoning in their orders.
Over time, additional chain pizzerias such as Papa John’s, Little Caesar’s, Godfathers, and Mazzio’s appeared. Each has a different crust and sauce recipe and sells a different range of foods. Today, customers can purchase pasta, salads, breadsticks, and wings to go with their pies.
The type of crust may generate more debate over the best pies than the toppings. Some pizzerias use a thin, crispy crust that is more akin to crackers than bread. Others prepare a thick crust, baked in a pan. Everything in between the two extremes can be found as well. Specialty crusts, such as a crust stuffed with cheese have also appeared periodically.
In some towns, there is so much competition that Pizza prices may be less today than a decade earlier. In many areas, it is the sheer number of pizzerias that has led to the price wars. However, manufacturers have also improved frozen pies as well, offering quality products at a lower cost than pizzerias.
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